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The Assouline Guide to Madrid

Art, culture, nightlife and hidden gems throughout this capital city.
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José Manuel Melgar enjoying lunch at El Paraguas, the first restaurant of Grupo Paraguas. Photo by Oliver Pilcher.

Madrid is a city of elegant contradictions: a vibrant metropolis where grand historic architecture stands shoulder to shoulder with cutting-edge contemporary spaces, and where traditional tapas bars coexist alongside avant-garde culinary destinations. To truly experience Madrid is to dip beneath the tourist-friendly surface and uncover its soul. Because this is a city that rewards those who dig beneath the surface. From its world-class museums and innovative dining to its underground music scene and hidden cocktail bars, here’s an insider's guide to Madrid, focusing on not just its celebrated attractions but also those under-the-radar spots that’ll leave you yearning for more, long after you’ve left its sun-drenched streets.

Art & Culture: The Pulse of Madrid

Madrid is an art lover’s dream, with the famous Golden Triangle of Art, featuring Museo del Prado, Museo Reina Sofía, and Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, being obligatory first stops for any traveler. The Prado’s vast collection of works by Goya, Velázquez, and El Greco is spellbinding, while the Reina Sofía, with Picasso's famed "Guernica" at its heart, delivers on modernist innovation.

But for the true insiders, Madrid’s contemporary art scene doesn’t stop here. Head to Matadero Madrid, a former slaughterhouse turned cultural center in the Arganzuela district. With a sprawling complex of galleries, theaters and creative spaces, Matadero serves as the epicenter of avant-garde cultural events, design exhibitions, and performances. The Sala Alcalá 31 is another under-the-radar gem that showcases groundbreaking contemporary art exhibitions in a beautifully restored 19th-century palace.

For those with a passion for urban art, make your way to the Lavapiés neighborhood. Here, street murals are more than just decoration—they’re woven into the fabric of local identity. Walking through Lavapiés feels like strolling through an ever-evolving gallery of the city’s best street art.

And no cultural experience is complete without visiting El Rastro. Every Sunday, this sprawling flea market comes alive in the La Latina district, where you’ll find everything from antique furniture and vinyl records to artisan crafts and vintage jewelry.

Dining: Where Tradition Meets Innovation

While Madrid is internationally known for its tapas bars, the local food scene is increasingly characterized by experimentation. For an experience that marries old-world tradition with innovative culinary techniques, book a table at DiverXO, Madrid’s three-Michelin-star restaurant headed by chef David Muñoz. At DiverXO, the concept of food transcends into theatrical artistry, with dishes presented as part of a whimsical journey that challenges your perception of what food can be.

Looking for something a bit more intimate? Sacha, tucked away in the charming Chamartín neighborhood, feels like a well-kept secret, even among Madrileños. This restaurant has been serving exquisite, unpretentious food with a focus on market-fresh ingredients since 1972. Don’t miss their famous fake lasagna, which artfully deconstructs the classic dish.

For tapas with a twist, try Sala de Despiece in the Chamberí district. Here, rustic Spanish ingredients are transformed into modern creations, served in a sleek industrial setting inspired by a butcher’s shop.

If you want to dive deep into Madrid’s culinary roots, spend an evening at Casa Lucio, a traditional restaurant famous for its huevos rotos—eggs fried over a bed of crispy potatoes. Located on Calle Cava Baja, this classic tavern has hosted politicians, celebrities, and discerning locals alike.

Nightlife & The Cocktail Scene: Madrid’s Hidden Gems After Dark

Madrid’s nightlife is legendary, but to experience it like a local, you’ll need to look beyond the obvious. Skip the tourist-heavy clubs and head to Medias Puri, a speakeasy-style nightclub hidden behind a faux shop selling stockings and tights. Inside, the space morphs into an immersive nightlife experience, with cabaret performances, live music, and eclectic DJ sets.

For something a bit more low-key but equally stylish, Salmon Guru is a must. Consistently ranked among the world’s top 50 bars, this quirky cocktail lounge is hidden away in the Las Letras district and serves imaginative drinks in an intimate, neon-lit setting.

Another secret favorite among Madrileños is Macera TallerBar, where the cocktails are handcrafted using house-made spirits. Its relaxed, industrial vibe attracts a trendy crowd, and it’s the perfect place to enjoy a cocktail before heading out for a late-night adventure.

For those seeking a true underground experience, El Sol is an iconic live music venue that has been a cornerstone of Madrid’s indie scene since the 1970s. Located in the Gran Vía area, El Sol hosts a mix of local bands and international acts, making it a perfect place to catch an unforgettable show.

Shopping: A Blend of Tradition and Modernity

Madrid offers some of the best shopping in Europe, with both luxury and local designers creating a perfect balance for shoppers. Begin at Calle Serrano, often dubbed the Fifth Avenue of Madrid, where global fashion houses such as Loewe and Chanel have flagship stores. But for a taste of something truly local, venture to Malasaña—the city’s bohemian district known for its indie boutiques and vintage shops. Rughara, for example, is a concept store that curates clothing and home decor from emerging Spanish designers.

For artisanal shopping, the Mercado de Motores is a monthly flea market held in a functioning train museum, where you can browse everything from handcrafted leather goods to ceramics, all set against a backdrop of vintage trains.

Off-the-Beaten-Path: A Madrid Only Locals Know

To uncover Madrid’s true charm, you have to wander beyond the obvious. Spend an afternoon in Parque del Capricho, a lesser-known yet stunningly beautiful park designed in the 18th century. Its English, French, and Italian garden styles offer a serene escape from the city’s hustle.

For a spiritual retreat, visit the Templo de Debod, an ancient Egyptian temple reassembled in the heart of Madrid. This monument provides panoramic views of the sunset over Casa de Campo, the largest green space in Madrid.

Finally, those in search of a hidden cultural experience should book a ticket to a performance at the Teatro de la Abadía. This intimate theater showcases experimental productions and is one of the most exciting spaces for contemporary drama in Spain.


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