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Ocean as Muse

From Melville to Margiela, the sea continues to shape the creative landscape of literature, fashion, film and design.

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Under the Sea at the Chanel Spring 2012 Fashion Show at The Grand Palais in Paris. Photo by © Olivier Saillant.

Next week, world leaders, scientists and advocates will gather in Nice for the 2025 United Nations Ocean Conference—an urgent call to accelerate collective action in conserving and sustainably using the world’s marine resources. Co-hosted by France and Costa Rica, the summit underscores the ocean’s critical role in sustaining life on Earth—and the growing recognition that protecting its future is inseparable from understanding its past and present cultural significance. 

But long before the ocean was a subject of diplomacy and science, it was a mirror for the human soul. A boundless force of beauty and volatility, the sea has always stirred the imagination. From ancient epics to modern fashion runways, the ocean has inspired creators across disciplines to explore themes of transformation, mystery, freedom, and fragility. It is at once a setting, a symbol, and a siren call. 

In Ocean Wanderlust, Assouline’s transportive tribute to maritime fascination, the sea is presented not only as a subject of aesthetic wonder, but as a dynamic force of cultural expression. Through archival photography, artistic renderings and reflections on the ocean’s many moods, the book captures the way water shapes our dreams—and our designs. 

What follows is a journey through that enduring influence—across literature, cinema, fashion, art, and architecture—charting how the ocean continues to shape the ways we tell stories, imagine futures, and define beauty. 

One of the twelve Olympians in ancient Greek mythology, Poseidon is god of the sea and is often depicted holding a trident. Photo by© lqiuz/Pixabay.

Literature: The Depths of Meaning 

From the very beginning of storytelling, the sea has served as both battleground and balm. In The Odyssey, Homer cast the ocean as a stage of transformation, where Odysseus—tossed from island to island, god to god—undergoes not only a physical journey but a metaphysical one. The sea is capricious and punishing, but also clarifying. It strips identity down to its essence. 

Centuries later, Herman Melville’s Moby-Dick would turn the ocean into a philosophical void, a place of obsession and endless inquiry. For Captain Ahab, the sea is not just nature—it is the unknowable itself. Similarly, Jules Verne envisioned the ocean as the next great frontier in Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. His protagonist, Captain Nemo, builds an empire beneath the surface, free from the failings of humankind above. These literary works endure not only for their thrilling narratives, but for their use of the sea as allegory—a site where dreams, dangers, and the unconscious all converge. 

Film: Immersive Worlds and Ecological Warnings 

If literature gave us metaphors, film has given us immersion. Few filmmakers have embraced the sea as fully as James Cameron. A deep-sea explorer in his own right, Cameron has called the ocean his “greatest teacher.” In The Abyss and Avatar: The Way of Water, he creates marine realms that are lush, otherworldly, and deeply emotional. His oceans aren’t just settings—they’re living characters, radiant with beauty and pulsing with danger. 

These cinematic visions reflect our growing awareness of what lies beneath the surface, both in terms of visual spectacle and ecological urgency. The ocean in Cameron’s work is fragile, irreplaceable, and sacred—a reminder that imagination must now exist alongside environmental stewardship. 

Left: Color lithograph by Alphonse de Neuville and Édouard Riou for Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, by Jules Verne, first illustrated edition published by Hetzel, 1871. Photo © Kharbine-Tapabor/Shutterstock. Right: The purposely sunken Nemesis III shipwreck off Protaras, Cyprus, now an artificial reef. Photo by Alex Dawson.

Fashion: Where Myth Meets Material 

Beneath the shimmer of couture lies a deep fascination with water. Designers across generations have dipped into maritime symbolism and sea-born forms, but in recent years, these references have taken on new depth—often bordering on the surreal. 

Take Iris van Herpen’s Spring 2023 couture collection: an underwater presentation that blurred the line between fashion and marine biology. Dresses floated and twisted like jellyfish or coral tendrils, shimmering with bioluminescent energy. It was a show as much about motion as material—fluid, weightless, otherworldly. 

Fashion houses from Chanel to Alexander McQueen have also summoned the sea. Chanel’s mythical undersea runway transported audiences into a dreamscape of shells, pearls, and siren silhouettes. McQueen’s Plato’s Atlantis remains one of fashion’s most prophetic moments—imagining a future where rising seas force humankind to return to the ocean, evolving new forms to survive. Margiela, Dior, and Jacquemus have all experimented with oceanic codes: netting, nautical tailoring, seafoam hues, and accessories that feel more like artifacts pulled from a shipwreck than items off a shelf. 

Left: Zaha Hadid, Stool "Liquid Glacial (Light Blue)," 2015, acrylic. Courtesy of David Gill Gallery. Right: Drowning Princess, photograph by Jvdas Berra.

Architecture & Design: Living With the Sea 

Beyond metaphor, designers have looked to the ocean for form, function, and even habitat. French architect Jacques Rougerie has spent his life imagining how we might live not beside the ocean, but within it. His nomadic underwater homes—submarine-like structures meant for long-term observation of marine ecosystems—feel as if they belong in the pages of Jules Verne. They’re both visionary and pragmatic: a fusion of architecture, marine science, and poetry. 

On land, Zaha Hadid’s fluid, organic buildings echo aquatic movement in concrete and steel. Her structures curve like waves and swirl like eddies, drawing inspiration from the sea’s constant, graceful motion. In Japanese design, too, marine aesthetics appear in the quiet discipline of ceramics and textiles—objects that hold the silence of the ocean as much as its shimmer. 

Entry by Solus 4 for the international design competition at the Marine Research Center in Bali, Indonesia. Photo by: Visual Production and Rendering: © Tangram 3DS/Design: Solus4.

Myth & Metaphor: Ancient Symbols, Modern Dreams 

Before the sea was explored, it was imagined. Ancient mythology gave us Poseidon, god of the sea, trident in hand. It gave us sirens and sea monsters, creatures of temptation and terror. The ocean was the edge of the known world—where sailors faced the supernatural, and survival was proof of divine favor. 

These myths endure, reinterpreted across mediums. Bioluminescent gowns echo the glow of sea nymphs. Floating art installations mimic sunken relics. Even today, we return to the sea not only for its beauty but for its symbolism. It represents the subconscious, the feminine, the unknowable. It is a place of transformation, of rebirth, of mystery. 

As Ocean Wanderlust elegantly illustrates, the ocean is not a trend but a timeless source of inspiration. It reflects our fears and fantasies, our longing and our recklessness. The sea is art’s original collaborator. But it is also endangered. If the waves have always whispered to us, now they’re warning us. 

To look to the sea as muse is to take on a responsibility: to protect what we celebrate. Because the same ocean that has given us mythology, cinema, couture, and architecture is also fragile, warming, disappearing. If we are to continue drawing from it, we must also commit to preserving it. 

The World of the Ocean

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