Left: Boats packed with young people anchored at Borgo Marinari in front of the Castel dell’Ovo on a summer’s day. Socializing outdoors is characteristic of the Neapolitan way of having fun. Right: Image from Ciro Pipoli’s gallery of Neapolitan characters. The little altar to Maradona is adorned with flowers, like the ones dedicated to saints and souls. Courtesy of Assouline's "Napoli Amore."
What To Do
If you only visit one museum in Napoli, it should be the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, which houses an incredible collection of ancient Roman sculptures as well as some of the finest frescoes and mosaics from Pompeii, plus a “secret room” of ancient erotic art. To get a feel for the city, go for a stroll on Spaccanapoli, the famously long and narrow street that cuts through the centro storico. If the crowds and the chaos get to be too much, duck into the peaceful Cloister of Santa Chiara, where orange trees grow in a garden surrounded by 18th-century majolica tiled benches and columns.
Once you reach the Amalfi Coast, ditch the car and get around by foot or boat whenever possible. Many of the towns are connected by ferries, but the best thing to do is hire a private boat and let the captain show you the most beautiful coves and grottoes. When you’re not busy boating around or relaxing at the beach clubs, sign up for a guided tour of the Roman Villa in Positano. Hidden under the church of Santa Maria Assunta, the area that has been excavated contains incredibly vibrant frescoes in shades of Pompeii red, cobalt, green, and ochre. In Amalfi, you might visit the Museo della Carta, where you can learn about the ancient art of papermaking, and the Duomo di Sant’Andrea with its Moorish cloister and elaborately decorated crypt. In Ravello, you should visit the Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone, which is famous for its beautiful gardens and “Terrace of Infinity.” The former hosts the Ravello Festival every summer; the latter is now a five-star hotel but its gardens are open to the public.