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Cesare Cunaccia's Rome

The former Vogue Italia editor and author of Assouline's latest Travel Series book, Roma Eterna, shares his personal map of Rome's hidden gems.

 

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Claudia Schiffer sees the sights on her own Roman holiday in a cotton-candy-colored shift dress. Photograph by Arthur Elgort for Vogue, 1994. Photo by Arthur Elgort/Condé Nast/Getty Images.

Most visitors arrive in Rome in search of the Colosseum and the perfect pasta. But beneath the surface, the Eternal City reveals its deepest secrets to those who know where to look. Roma local Cesare Cunaccia has that insider perspective. He sees Rome as a city where history pulses through everyday moments, from the family-run shops and trattorias to the workshops and bookshops that have stood still for decades. Here, he shares the best spot to get a classic Italian dessert, his favorite bookshop, his go-to restaurants, and what it means to belong to this extraordinary city.

The gardens of the Villa del Priorato, headquarters of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. Photo by Susan Wright featured in Roma Eterna by Assouline.

My favorite Hotel in Rome is: I really love Hotel de Russie, with its evocations of Picasso and Cocteau, the elegant cosmopolitan crowd, and the terraced garden as a backdrop. Also among my favorites are the panoramic views of the Hassler Hotel, the striking Anglophile décor of Hotel de La Ville, and the sophisticated style of the J.K. Place Roma with its vintage design. My favorite hotel now, though, is the Bulgari Hotel Roma.

The best place to get breakfast is: I have a real passion for Babingtons, at the foot of the Spanish Steps.

My favorite neighborhood in Rome is: The area of Via Giulia and Via di Monserrato in Rione Regola. I like it for the harmonious blend of large, historical Renaissance and Baroque buildings with others of a more intimate and cozy scale.

If I want the best pasta, my favorite place is: Osteria da Fortunata is the temple of pasta alla carbonara and Amatriciana. Felice a Testaccio is famous for its "tonnarelli" cacio e pepe and artichokes alla romana. Also masterful is the "cacio e pepe" by chef Fulvio Pierangelini in Le Jardin at the Hotel de Russie. Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto is the king of "Gricia," an explosive mix of guanciale, pecorino, and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.

If I want to go shopping for artisanal products, I go to: A special address is Coralla Maiuri at Palazzo Massimo Lancellotti, an extraordinary ceramic artist who invents unique objects: portraits, sculptures, vases, candlesticks, and fairy-tale plate sets, overflowing with colours, abstract signs, milk white, and gold.

Left: Untamed greenery adds to the charm of the quaint alleyways found across Rome. Photo by Susan Wright.Right: A typical argument of gestures between a Vespa scooter rider and traffic policeman in Rome, 1999. Photo by RichardBakerItaly/Alamy Stock Photo.

When I want to take a walk, I go to: The Forums never disappoint, an archaeological walk that suddenly throws you into another time. 

When I want to eat something local, I stop at: Nino is always one of my favorites, a place of old tradition and reassuring elegance, firmly rooted in the 1950s and 1960s of the local golden age. 

The best place to buy books in Rome is: For a unique and timeless atmosphere, I would say that Antica Libreria Cascianelli in Largo Febo, an opulent bohemian accumulation of second-hand volumes, unusual trouvailles, curiosities, textiles, and prints. 

For a special occasion, I book a table at: Pierluigi, at 144 Piazza de'Ricci. Refined cuisine made contemporary, and a vast wine cellar of excellence, with over 1,500 labels. Owner Lorenzo Lisi's care extends to even the smallest detail. 

My favorite historical landmark in Rome is: The Campidoglio steps with the elliptical piazza designed by Michelangelo at the top dominated by the bronze sculpture of Marcus Aurelius, closely linked to the fate of Rome according to legend.

The best dessert in Rome is: The Maritozzi con la panna at Regoli Pasticceria on the Esquiline is a masterpiece, overflowing, large and fluffy. The profiteroles and patisserie mignon are also fantastic.

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