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An Art and Design Lovers Guide to Marrakech

As 1-54—Africa and its diaspora’s celebrated contemporary art fair—descends on the Moroccan capital, many will be flocking to the city to take in its splendors.

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A fountain at Yves Saint Laurent's Villa Oasis stands in front of the pavilion added by Madison Cox in 2010. The pavilion is an octagonal structure of painted cedar, with French doors.

One whiff of Marrakech’s spice-infused air or a glimpse of the red clay walls basking in the sun’s warmth, and it’s easy to understand how the Red City is one of the world’s most sensory destinations. The city sits along the ancient trading routes that drew merchants from Europe, the Middle East, and the rest of Africa to exchange precious stones, leather goods, exotic spices, richly dyed textiles, intoxicating perfumes, luscious silks, and precious pottery. Today, these global influences echo throughout the city and are reflected in its food, fashion, design, music, and craftsmanship.

It’s no surprise, then, that Marrakech has long been a magnet for the creative class who are seduced by the city’s inexhaustible beauty. Among them are Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, Bill Willis, Talitha Getty, Henri Matisse, Cecil Beaton, and Josephine Baker. “Marrakech’s extraordinary light and colors are a source of profound inspiration for many artists, who find the city’s luminosity to have a meditative quality to it,” muses Yasmine Berrada Sounni, director of Loft Art Gallery, which represents modern and contemporary artists from the continent. As the 1-54 art fair takes over the capital today, we sought to discover where best to stay, eat, shop, see art, and unwind in the “Daughter of the Desert.”

Welcome to La Mamounia Hotel, the epitome of elegance and luxury.

Where To Stay

There’s no shortage of exceptional stays in Marrakech for the art-and-design-inclined, from world-class hotels and opulent palaces to boutique riads and discrete hideaways. La Grande Dame of the city is La Mamounia, the ne plus ultra of elegance and tradition, whose reputation for impeccable hospitality precedes it. With a recent update to legendary designer Jacques Garcia’s iconic interiors by French firm Jouin Manku, the 100-year-old hotel remains as timeless and contemporary as ever.  

Over at El Fenn, Vanessa Branson’s kaleidoscopic boutique hotel enjoys a cult-like following in the art and design world, thanks to its abundant use of pattern and color throughout each of its individually designed rooms and breathtaking rooftop. Pieces from Branson’s personal collection of art adorn the walls, including works from Antony Gormley, Hassan Hajjaj, Yto Barrada, and David Shrigley.

Vanessa Branson’s art collection is displayed throughout El Fenn.

For something a bit more under the radar, check into Riad Sakkan, tucked away in the famous Mouassine district. Its moody and sensuous atmosphere is heightened by its collection of fashion editorials by Marc Lagrange, many of which were shot on location in Morocco. Nearby, Riad Brummell offers an intimate and laid-back approach, with a contemporary design that still honors its Moroccan tradition. 

And if the city’s tempo proves overwhelming, serenity beckons at the ever-zen Amanjena on the outskirts of the city. Nestled in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, the luxurious Moorish-style retreat designed by revered architect Ed Tuttle is enveloped by an oasis of olive groves, swaying palms, and date trees. It offers an exceptional spa with two hammams, clay tennis courts, private yoga classes, and a true escape just minutes from the city center.

The vast reflective pool mirrors the earth-toned pisé-de- terre walls at Amanjena.

Where To Eat and Drink

Marrakech’s vibrant and dynamic food scene is rapidly solidifying its reputation as a culinary destination. While one can find endless variations of couscous and fragrant tagines—slow-simmering stews of turmeric, cumin, ginger, paprika, and other spices named for the clay vessel they’re cooked in—a new generation of culinary masters are bringing global flavors to the table. 

The fashionable Le Kilim offers white fish ceviche tacos alongside charred zucchini and goat cheese furikake, while Noujoum set atop the new IZZA hotel serves dishes including rabbit ravioli with saffron and preserved lemon butter. At Studio KO-designed Sahbi Sahbi, the open kitchen takes center stage as the team of entirely female chefs reinterprets Moroccan recipes like crispy sea bass tawa or beef shin with white bean tanjia. They will gladly explain ingredients and techniques to onlookers seated at the counter. Be sure not to miss lunch beneath the shade of lemon trees at La Famille, a cozy and convivial vegetarian-only spot (you won’t miss the meat), where the menu changes daily depending on what is fresh at market. 

La Trattoria, a ’30s Hollywood restaurant with a Moroccan flair, was a Bill Willis original, created in 1974. Mohamed Anaflouss bought the restaurant in 2003.

Pop into the historic Le Grand Café de la Poste on a Sunday for their weekly jazz nights, and order a round or two of oysters plucked fresh from nearby Oualidia, then end the night at legendary haunt Comptoir Darna, where belly dancers twirl with trays of golden candelabras balanced on their heads.

What To See and Do

Architecture lovers will revel in the grandeur of the famous El Badi and Bahia palaces, while the Medersa Ben Youssef, where its glazed Zellij tilework, muqarnas dome of honeycomb vaulting, floral stucco patterns, and ornate marble flooring is an exquisite example of Islamic architecture. 

Beloved Moroccan artist and photographer, Hassan Hajjaj, invites visitors into his world at Riad Yima, which serves not only as his home, but also as a gallery boutique and tearoom that hosts performances and workshops. Also not to miss is the Musée d’Art Contemporain Africain Al Maaden (MACAAL), which features a permanent collection of sculptures, paintings, textiles, photographs, and works of other mediums, as well as an outdoor sculpture park presenting works on a larger scale. 

Left: Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, designed by Studio KO. Right: The colorful crowds of Jemaa el-Fnaa square.

And for a break from the electric atmosphere, an array of hammams and spas ranging from the traditional (Hammam de la Rose, Les Bains de Marrakech) to the indulgent (La Mamounia Spa, Les Bains de Tarabel, and Le Farnatchi spa) offer treatments with exfoliating olive and eucalyptus soaps, mineral-rich clay masks, rose oil massages, herbal body wraps, and more. 

Awash in their intense signature shade of cobalt blue, the lush Majorelle Gardens feature over 130 species of plants cultivated from across the globe including cacti, water lilies, coconut trees, yuccas, and jasmine. Originally planted by designer Louis Majorelle and later lovingly restored by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, the gardens are also home to the Berber Arts Museum, established by Pierre. Saint Laurent devotees can get glimpses into the late designer’s life and work at the nearby Musée Yves Saint Laurent, which displays an array of sketches, accessories, garments, and more.

Adolfo de Velasco, Pierre and Yves’s neighbor in Marrakech, relaxes on a veranda, 1988. Photo by Slim Aarons. Those who knew Adolfo recognized his gift for entertaining.

Where To Shop

Where better to start than in the medina? Lose yourself in the enchanting labyrinth of alleys, souks, shops, and stalls—and should you actually get lost, young local guides will gladly lead you to your destination for a few dirhams. Venture into the Souk Cherifa for under-the-radar pieces, the Place Des Épices for handwoven hats, baskets, and spices, and Souk Zrabia for rugs (make sure to haggle!). Other artisans to check out include Yahya Creation, who uses age-old Moroccan metalwork techniques to craft lamps, and Azalai Nomad Living for specialty glassware. For vintage handwoven wool, silk, cotton ben rugs, make an appointment with Soufiane Zarib, or visit Studio Lid Rugs in Sidi-Ghanem.

Founded by Belgian-born artist and designer Laurence Leenaert, boutique LRNCE offers ceramics, textiles, ready-to-wear, home objects and more, all handmade by a selection of local artisans. Or stop into MORO concept store, who offers a selection of clothing, bags, jewelry, and homeware, as well as a specialty fragrance by The Moroccans.

1-54 Contemporary African Art Fair's return of its Marrakech edition will take place from January 30 to February 2, 2025.

Left: The main courtyard of the Ben Youssef Madrasa. Madrasa is the arabic word for an educational institution. Right: Cones of exotic spices at the souk.

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