A Day in Tuscany With Cesare Cunaccia

For Cesare Cunaccia, Tuscany is as much about its people and traditions as its celebrated landscapes. The writer, former Vogue Italia editor, and author of Assouline’s Tuscany Marvel has an intimate knowledge of the region and the characters who bring it to life. His itinerary moves from seasonal meals and breathtaking Florentine views to encounters with local doyennes and nights in majestic ancient villas—all revealing a different side of Tuscany’s enduring allure.

The one place that every visitor must go to is: Siena in early autumn embodies the essence of the Tuscan dream. Otherwise, Siena, during one of the two Palios (on July 2nd or August 15th), is an incredible, explosive experience. The entire city participates in reviving the splendor of the age of the Republic. 

My first memory of Tuscany is: A late summer sunset in the main square of Pienza (Siena) when I was a very small child. Pienza has always been central in my imagination and inspiration, especially its unbelievable Renaissance cathedral facade and the perfection of the nearby Palazzo Piccolomini.

When I want a dose of culture in Tuscany, I visit: The Uffizi Museum in Florence. It’s a culturally emblematic journey, with its incredible medieval, Renaissance and Mannerism masterpieces and the living memory of the Medici family, who founded the institution. You can always discover something different even in the most renowned works of art, such as Michelangelo's "Tondo Doni" or Botticelli’s "Birth of Venus.”

One of my favorite places to walk/hike/explore in the area is: The Val d’Orcia, with its vastness, immense light, glorious sculpted landscapes, and its incredible small cities redolent of the past and future at the same time. You can walk for days following ancient roads such as the Via Francigena leading from France to Rome.

The meal I can’t leave Tuscany without is: In summertime, it’s the "Pappa col pomodoro", a simple old recipe based on stale bread and crushed tomatoes, with generous olive oil, some garlic, and fresh basil. In wintertime, I love all the mushroom recipes and of course, a classic Florentine Steak, especially from my secret place, Il Giardino di Alberoro, a small cozy restaurant in Alberoro, a village in the Val di Chiana. 

My favorite hotel in Tuscany is: The Salviatino in Florence represents something special. It’s an ancient majestic villa at the feet of Fiesole hills, surrounded by a perfect garden. Service is perfectly attentive and there’s even a contemporary art experience with Michelangelo Pistoletto’s “Third Paradise.”

My favorite restaurant in Tuscany is: For generations, Cammillo in Florence has had the perfect quality, atmosphere, and service, keeping alive local tradition with some global touches such as the most delicious curry chicken and an astonishing homemade chutney. I love the patronne Chiara, so fun and amazing, full of stories, jokes, and anecdotes.

For one of the best views in the area, go to: The Val di Chiana and Trasimeno Lake from the medieval city of Cortona. In Pienza the view from the walls is breathtaking. Even more spectacular is the view from Radicofani Castle. Last but not least, the Florence beauty from the hills of Fiesole.

If you’re visiting Tuscany for the first time, be sure to stop by: The most historic cities, Florence, the incredible Siena, or Lucca, a real gem. The beautiful nature and sea of Maremma. Explore a small perfect treasure such as Montepulciano, Pienza, Cortona, or get lost in the Chianti area discovering the Tuscan wine glory. Visit the incredible Antinori winery in Bargino, and the ancient caves of the Castle Sonnino in Montespertoli, run by one of the most fascinating landladies, the Baroness Caterina de Renzis Sonnino. Tuscany means so many different souls, landscapes, and identities. 

One of my favorite museums in Tuscany is: The Palazzo Pitti in Florence has something for everyone, with the opulence and numerous masterpieces of the Galleria Palatina, the Medici treasury of the Museo degli Argenti, the surprising Galleria d’Arta Moderna, and the glory of the Boboli Garden. A perfect day experience. 

My favorite place to shop for unique gifts is: A must is Lorenzo Villoresi’s shop in a medieval palazzo in Via de’Bardi in Florence; his fragrances are marvelous. Also in Florence, Pampaloni, the master of silver, offers an incredible spectrum of cutlery sets. Florence’s Bottega Locchi is a crystal magician who can repair or reproduce antique pieces. Another special place is the antique eccentricities shop of Giovanni Raspini in the medieval town of Arezzo.

Describe Tuscany in three words: Enlightening, timeless, harmonious.