At Assouline, the culture of a place is never defined by geography alone, but by the rituals that give it life: what we taste, where we gather, what we see, and how we feel when we return.
My first memory of Capri is: It's hard to say. I've been going there forever, and Capri is a bit like my true home. Perhaps the memory dates back to childhood, to that same gentle euphoria, the luminous joy of being part of something collective and suspended in time, that still takes hold of me the moment I step onto the harbour quay and catch the scent of Capri, the salty breath of the sea that surrounds it.
When I want a dose of culture in Capri, I visit: Villa Jovis, whose imposing ruins embody the mad ambition of the Roman emperor Tiberius to transform a small Mediterranean island into the capital of his vast empire. The view from up there is incredible, stretching across both gulfs as far as the eye can see, almost dizzying. Just next to it is Astarita Park, perfect for reading in peace or finding a moment away from the crowds, set against dramatic cliffs of pale rock, almost Nordic in appearance. Not to be missed, a short walk away via a somewhat rugged shortcut, is Villa Lysis, the evocative residence of the scandalous Baron Jacques d'Adelsward Fersen.
The one place every visitor must go to is: If you're visiting the island for the first time, it may sound obvious, but you simply must make your way to the Belvedere di Tragara. Push through the crowds in the town centre and shop windows, then walk along the street of the same name, lined with gardens and opening onto surreal views of the landscape. The Faraglioni rise up below, lapped by water that shimmers in a thousand shades from sapphire to emerald, until it becomes a liquid, luminous tourmaline. Suddenly you understand why Pablo Neruda renamed the island "Reina de Roca."
One of my favorite museums in Capri is: The Certosa di San Giacomo, a magnificent former monastery dating back to the Middle Ages, with a large courtyard, a deconsecrated Gothic church, a fragrant secret garden, and the Quartino del Priore, which offers yet another, unusual view of the Faraglioni. An archaeological museum focused on the Tiberian period recently opened here, helping visitors understand the island's extraordinary history.
The meal I cannot leave Capri without is: Without question, Aurora's unrivalled Pizza all'Acqua, made by a dynasty of women now represented by Mia D'Alessio. It's my favorite restaurant on the island, along with Le Grottelle, a must on full moon nights, reached via a long, occasionally steep walk that climbs past Pian delle Noci.
One of my favorite beaches is: I prefer to experience the sea by boat, moving along the coast depending on how crowded it is. But a day at Lido del Faro in Anacapri, in late spring or September, is a ritual I still love. In Marina Piccola, I like to walk down from Tragara to Luigi ai Faraglioni, a terraced plateau nestled among the rocks beneath those colossal spires that tower above you. And just behind the stone quay wall of the main pier, I like to have lunch at Lo Smeraldo in Marina Grande, for the excellent local cuisine and the old-fashioned courtesy of the staff.
My favorite hotel in Capri is: Hotel La Minerva is a cult destination. A small, family-run hidden gem just steps from the Piazzetta, it combines hospitality, location, and décor, rich with antique Neapolitan tiles, paintings, furnishings, and vintage objects that evoke the chic of another era and the essence of a hotel tradition born simple yet aristocratic. The rooftop restaurant is excellent too, with a few quiet tables on the terrace and impeccable food and service.
If you're visiting Capri for the first time, be sure to stop by: Punta Cannone. The climb rewards you with an extraordinary view, and on foot, you come to appreciate the approach and respect this magical island demands. If you can navigate the small boats crowding the entrance, the Blue Grotto is worth seeing at least once in a lifetime. In Anacapri, Villa San Michele remains a treasure trove of charm and storytelling, perched in a panoramic spot at the top of the Scala Fenicia.
Cesare Cunaccia has called Capri home since childhood, and it shows. Here, he shares the island as he actually lives it: the ruins he returns to, the beach he reaches by boat, and the smile from a local that tells him he's home.
I like to go shopping in: Among my favorites is Laboratorio Capri by Michele Esposito, son of the famous trouser-maker Gigino, who served Capri's elite for decades. He reinvents local classics with exclusive fabrics and a sophisticated freshness. A visit to Chantecler is a must too, the legendary Capri jeweller founded in 1947, a favorite of the jet set and icons like Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and her sister Lee Radziwill, Ingrid Bergman, Audrey Hepburn, Ava Gardner, and Mona Bismarck. And at Libreria la Conchiglia, I never leave without one of their volumes on local stories and events spanning two thousand years, all in an elegant retro design with refined colors.
I feel at home in Capri when: The moment I step ashore and one of the many Capri locals I know smiles at me with their eyes, as if I'd never left. A sort of insider's code.
Describe Capri in three words: Timeless, joyful, welcoming.