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10 Pieces by Cartier That Are Classic, Unexpected, And Timeless

It all started with the idea of becoming the world's premier maison. The rest is history.

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A Cartier celebration in Saint Moritz in 1975. Photo by Bertrand Laforet.

The centuries-old allure of Cartier is truly one-of-a-kind. The world-renowned jeweler has transcended the boundaries of high jewelry making with such signature items as the Love Bracelet, the Trinity Ring and pieces that exude the highest level of craftsmanship, artistry and design. But how did this French maison come to life? In 1847, founder Louis-François Cartier took over his mentor's workshop and conceived Maison Cartier. Little did he know it would evolve into one of the world’s most celebrated high jewelry houses. 

Today, the prestigious house is best known for such creations as the Tank watch and Love Bracelet. But its unique emerald creations and Art Deco baubles are what truly sets this French maison apart.

Courtesy of Cartier

Mystery Clock

Clockmaker Maurice Coüet was only twenty-eight when he introduced the first mystery clock in 1912. The name stems from the illusion that the clock's hands seem to float without any visible connection. Inspired by Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, a 19th-century watchmaker, illusionist, and magician, the first model of the mystery clock was adorned with diamonds, golden laurel leaf motifs, and platinum edges.

Courtesy of Cartier

Tank Wristwatch

The Tank Wristwatch, designed in 1917 and available for purchase in 1919, draws inspiration from a French military tank from World War One. Today, Cartier offers six different collections of the Tank and 45 different watch models, including the Cintrée, the Chinoise, the Basculante, and the Asymétrique. The Tank's unique design, with two main lines of the case extending uninterrupted beyond the watch face, continues to be one of the most versatile and iconic watches in the market.

Courtesy of Cartier

Trinity Ring

When it comes to rings, the Cartier Trinity Ring stands out for its powerful design, craftsmanship, timelessness, and acclaim. Made up of three intertwined bands of white gold, yellow gold, and rose gold, its simple yet intricate design can symbolize bonds of love or friendship. This ring was the first piece created by Cartier for both men and women. In 2024, the brand celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Trinity Ring by launching a reimagined XL Trinity bracelet and an XL version of the ring.

Courtesy of Cartier

Tutti Frutti Necklace

The Tutti Frutti collection, introduced in the 1920s, is a tribute to the stone carving expertise of Indian royalty. The pieces in this collection intricately combine sapphires, diamonds, rubies, and emeralds into the forms of leaves, buds, and berries, resulting in extraordinary pieces. The creation of the Tutti Frutti Necklace, initially named the Cartier Hindu Necklace, was commissioned in 1936 by French socialite Daisy Fellowes.

Courtesy of Cartier

Bib Necklace

Bib necklaces have been synonymous with Cartier throughout its history. For the house's hundredth anniversary in 1947, an exhibition in rue de la Paix featured bib necklaces of Egyptian or Indian inspiration. This amethyst piece commissioned that same year for Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, features twenty-eight faceted amethysts, including an oval and a heart shape, diamonds, gold, and turquoise cabochons to adorn throughout. 

Courtesy of Cartier

Emerald Panther Brooch

Cartier's Panthère motif, introduced in 1914, has truly stood the test of time. Today, the Panthère can be seen in cases, the linings of sunglasses, handbags, and in lots of Cartier's jewelry. In 1948, the big cat was showcased in a three-dimensional brooch for the first time in the house's history. Commissioned for the Duchess of Windsor, the panther is made out of yellow gold with black lacquer spots, and it sits atop a 116-carat emerald cabochon.

Courtesy of Cartier

Crash Wristwatch

Created in 1967 in London under the direction of Jacques Cartier and artisan Rupert Emmerson, the Crash Wristwatch is amongst the rarest and most coveted watches today. Its avant-garde case and its elegant dial go beyond the boundaries of most watchmakers, making the Crash a prized collector's item.

Courtesy of Cartier

Love Bracelet

In 1969, Italian designer Aldo Cipullo developed the design of The Love bracelet. This iconic gold bangle, adorned with screwhead motifs, is one of Cartier's most easily recognizable pieces and is considered to be the world's first iconic jewel. Since 1969, Cartier has released multiple variations of the bracelet, including white gold and rose gold versions, some with diamonds, and a studded edition.

Courtesy of Cartier

Double Tiger Head Bracelet

In the early 1980s, Cartier introduced thematic collections that highlighted the Maison's heritage and creativity. In 1988, the house presented the double-headed tiger bangle, which is made completely out of yellow gold with black lacquer stripes. This collection, titled The Nouvelle Joaillerie collection, included pieces meant to be worn throughout the day, no matter the occasion, and featured designs with volume and strong lines.

Eternity Necklace

The Chivor mine, located two thousand meters above the foothills of Colombia's Eastern Ranges, is known for its exquisite deep green emeralds. In 1994, a remarkable 2,500-carat emerald stone was transformed into five unique gems, which were later acquired by Cartier. Two pear-shaped emeralds, each weighing about 200 carats, became the centerpiece of the Eternity Necklace, a platinum serpent necklace famously worn by British supermodel Naomi Campbell at a Cartier dinner in 1998. The remaining three stones were sculpted into cushion shapes and adorned the rest of the white gold necklace.

Elements of this story are taken from Chanel: The Impossible Collection by Hervé Dewintre.


The Ultimate Collection Cartier: The Impossible Collection
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The Legends Collection Cartier Panthère
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The Ultimate Collection The Impossible Collection of Jewelry
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