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Step Inside The Beating Pulse Of Rolex

Learn about the craftsmanship, precision, and autonomy of the Swiss brand.
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The Rolex Daytona watch is closely associated with the legendary American actor, Paul Newman. Newman's affinity for and regular wearing of the Daytona model helped propel it to iconic status and make it a highly coveted collector's item. Photo is featured in Assouline's Rolex: The Impossible Collection.

It's impossible to think about watches without thinking of Rolex. Whether the Jubilee bracelet or classic three-piece-link Oyster, the brand remains as iconic as when it launched in 1908. Rolex was born out of a partnership between German businessman Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis. They pioneered the wristwatch industry by creating the first watch to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision and designing the first waterproof wristwatch in 1926. Today, Rolex remains the standard in luxury watchmaking for enthusiasts and collectors, alike. Take a glimpse into its most iconic watches.

Oyster with Octagonal Case

In 1926, the first water and dustproof wristwatch in history was created, marking the beginning of the Rolex Oyster wristwatch. This particular model features an octagonal design with a mechanical Aegler movement.

Oyster Perpetual

To make the Oyster completely water and dustproof, Hans Wilsdorf created the Perpetual rotor, which was the world's first automatic watch mechanism that enabled the watch to wind by itself by using the kinetic energy of the wearer's wrist motions. This technology was later adopted across the industry throughout the twentieth century. 

Oyster Perpetual Datejust

To go one step beyond the classic Oyster Perpetual, the Datejust model was the first watch ever to display the date in an aperture on the dial. Eight years after its launch, Rolex enhanced the design with a Cyclops magnifying lens to make the date even more accessible to read.

Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge

On March 26, 2012, the submersible Deepsea Challenger (opposite), piloted solo by the person responsible for its construction, the filmmaker James Cameron, repeated Jacques Piccard’s 1960 exploit by descending to the bottom of the Mariana Trench (10,908 meters, or 35,787 feet), with this watch worn on his craft’s exterior robotic arm. This experimental automatic watch, 51.4 millimeters (2 inches) in diameter and 28.5 millimeters (1.1 inches) thick, is a structurally reinforced version of the Rolex commercial Deepsea launched in 2008. The watch is constructed in three main layers: a ring of nitrogen-doped stainless steel, an aluminum-oxide crystal 14.3 millimeters (0.6 inches) thick, and the Ring Lock case of grade 5 titanium, 5.3 millimeters (0.2 inches) thick. The dive was a success. According to Cameron, the fact that he also took the 1960 Deep Sea Special watch along on his expedition brought him luck.

Oyster Perpetual Submariner

With the launch of the Submariner, Rolex opened a new chapter in the company's history. The original Oyster Perpetual Submariner was launched in 1953, and it was the first divers' waterproof watch that could reach a depth of 330 feet. In addition, its rotatable bezel allowed divers to read their immersion time.

Oyster Perpetual Explorer

To serve the needs of outdoor explorers, including mountaineers, divers, and pilots, Rolex developed a series of automatic watches with a larger, legible stainless steel dial. This model was one of the first on the market in 1953, right after its prototype equipped Sir Edmund Hillary's expedition to the summit of Mount Everest.

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master

The GMT-Master is one of Rolex's most emblematic watches. Worn by Brad Pitt and Pablo Picasso, this automatic watch tells the time in a second time zone using a single red hand and a twenty-four-hour bezel. Originally designed as a navigation aid, this model rapidly became the official watch for several airlines.

Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller

Made for world travelers, its simple usage and easy legibility make it the perfect flying asset. The displays for the date and the second time zone are regulated by rotating the bezel and with just three clicks, it can display the day, time of current location, and then, the time in a different zone.

Oyster Perpetual Milgauss

The Milgauss, initially intended for use for those in professions involving strong magnetic fields, was relaunched fifty-one years later. This model, worn by English actor Daniel Craig and football player Tom Brady, is resisant to magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss and features a bold design.

Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master Rolex model took over 35,000 hours of development and is still considered one of the most complicated Rolex models to date. This watch is the only sailing watch in the world with a mechanical memory. In addition, the watch features a programmable countdown function involving the bezel’s interaction with the movement.

Elements of this story are taken from Rolex: The Impossible Collection (2nd Edition) by Fabienne Reybaud.


The World of Watches

The Ultimate Collection Rolex: The Impossible Collection (2nd Edition)
Regular price
$1,200
The Ultimate Collection The Impossible Collection of Watches (2nd Edition)
Regular price
$1,200
The Legends Collection Citizen: The Essence of Time
Regular price
$195

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